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Author Topic: Loss of one cylinder  (Read 713 times)
TrapperAH1G
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Posts: 190

Toledo, WA


« on: April 03, 2025, 11:34:17 PM »

Riding on twisties and noticed bike wasn't running right, sluggish.  Pulled over and in checking it out, found that pulling the plug wire on the left front cylinder doesn't change how it runs.  Definite change in idle if I remove any of the other five wires.  From this, I assume the coil should be ok since the second plug wire has spark.  Changed plug, no joy.  Plug wire?  How hard is it to remove ends and replace just the wire?

Thanks for your thoughts, wisdom.
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Jims99
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Posts: 799


Ormond Beach Fl.


« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2025, 04:26:40 AM »

Pull the plug, stick it back on the wire, lay it against metal and start the bike. You will be able to if it’s firing or not. The area can be changed but not sure how difficult that is. Butch Fowler and wood butcher make up coil packs with new wires even in different colors. May also be a clogged float (sticking) not getting fuel. You can’t try running a strong dose of B-12 or Techron to try clear it out.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
98valk
Member
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Posts: 13352


South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2025, 05:05:32 AM »

Riding on twisties and noticed bike wasn't running right, sluggish.  Pulled over and in checking it out, found that pulling the plug wire on the left front cylinder doesn't change how it runs.  Definite change in idle if I remove any of the other five wires.  From this, I assume the coil should be ok since the second plug wire has spark.  Changed plug, no joy.  Plug wire?  How hard is it to remove ends and replace just the wire?

Thanks for your thoughts, wisdom.

the wire is attached to the coil with a plastic compression tube fitting like this but not brass
https://automation-renew.blogspot.com/2013/02/compression-tube-fittings.html

the wires are stranded cooper, and there is a metal spike inside the coil end that the cable is pushed onto.    
the plug end actually has a removable resistor. there have been some reported cases of one failing.  

from some research yrs ago the carburetor Honda engines all had the same coil/wire setup.

do an ohm check on the plug, it might be bad. 

A nice performance mod I did yrs ago and which I need to reinstall this yr is re-installing the hotter firing blackbird coils.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2025, 05:43:54 AM by 98valk » Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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h13man
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Posts: 1711


To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2025, 05:08:31 AM »

Well I have fouled two stock NGK's on my bike at two different times both times the plugs were just over 10,000 mi. on two different cylinders.
If you look in the OEM manual, 8,000 mi. change intervals. After the last time I installed NGK Iridium as they really perform great cold starting to the point I only use the "enrichner" at spring roll out only. I have 12,000 on them at this time. Basically getting all I can out of them as I keep a spare in the tool kit.

BTW, there a PDF floating around here somewhere showing how to rebuild the wires using stock components. I used the following:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Red-7mm-Solid-Core-Spark-Plug-Wire-20-Ft-,5117.html?sku=91064011&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhs79BRD0ARIsAC6XpaVH24FToirTU7ukZyHMQuJiYQA7Vg0Z1KagAcFw2BPccdhc5HUqLBkaAkvkEALw_wcB
« Last Edit: April 04, 2025, 05:16:46 AM by h13man » Logged
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15149


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2025, 05:04:27 PM »

You said no spark on #2(left front), do you have spark on #1...right front? Both fired by the same coil, the one near the front tucked under the tank on the left. I'd just raise the tank enough to get at the wires and check for bad/loose connections for the plug wires. Then check continuity on the #2 wire, you may have a bad resistor which is inside the rubber plug cover.
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TrapperAH1G
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Posts: 190

Toledo, WA


« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2025, 09:54:38 PM »

Number 2 cylinder is the only one that seems not to change the idle when disconnected.  Changed the plug, no improvement.  Played around with the wire, connector and it cured it......for a while, then it lost power again.  Will check for spark tomorrow.

I run techron in my tank every 3rd tank or so.
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da prez
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Posts: 4327

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2025, 07:30:10 AM »

  I just had one that was a coil break down. We gave the coil to a shop that knew how to test.
 I tried to find the OHMS test , but couldn't come up with the numbers.
  They said it would break down under load. Replaced the coil and all is good.

                                          da prez
« Last Edit: April 07, 2025, 07:44:29 AM by da prez » Logged
TrapperAH1G
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Posts: 190

Toledo, WA


« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2025, 12:17:34 AM »

Finally got a day that wasn't windy and rainy.  Removed the tank, thinking I'd trim the wire at the coil, then change the plug wire if that didn't work.  As soon as I looked at the coil I saw that the ground wire nut was almost all the way backed off.  Tightened it down, put the tank on and connected the lines, fired up and all is good.  No idea why that nut was loose, the other ground wire nut on that coil was tight.

Thanks for all the input, suggestions.  Ride safe.  Tomorrow, Sunday, am riding with my son and grandson.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6313


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2025, 06:07:18 AM »

Glad it was an easy and cheap fix cooldude

Can't remember hearing of this issue before.
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